Built for comfort, not for speed.


Research project into the use of 3D virtual prototyping in a creative design process

EASE UP was the first project where I worked completely in 3D for design & development. It was where I started experimenting with new ways of designing, creating intricate pattern constructions including many failed experiments: fail fast, fail often. Eventually I managed to come up with a – for me – new way of designing, wherein I combined traditional pattern cutting methods with draping and manipulation of patterns, in a 3D environment. It allowed me to experiment with constructions on a new level, without wasting any centimeter of fabric.

This project boosted my fascination for 3D design and the whole world around 3D. It entailed my first experiences with rendering options and I explored endless possibilities of presenting the garments through augmented reality and virtual reality.

Project Name: EASE UP
Project Completed: January 2018
Institute: Amsterdam Fashion Institute
Awarded with: Lectra Award 2018
Focus areas: 3D design, patterns, development

Design & Development

A combination of traditional pattern cutting methods with draping and manipulation of patterns, all within a 3D design environment.

The design process during this project solely existed in the virtual space. The combination of traditional CADCAM software (Lectra Modaris) with more advanced 3D software (CLO3D) enabled me to play around with new constructions I couldn’t get my mind wrapped around. From a vague notion of how pattern pieces would circle around the body, I was able make these seemingly fanciful constructions come to life.

During this project I also learned how to read 3D garments in detail: how every little detail would behave in a real-life garment and how I could make sure my 3D garments would be as close to real-life as possible. This obviously needed some trial and error at the start, but eventually I was able to create my final physical garments straight from my 3D files, without any sampling in between.

Project Outcome

A capsule collection of 6 garments – presented in the form of 3D still renders, turntables, AR, VR and their physical counterparts

With 3 main garment constructions, each represented in 1 of the main garments, the collection tells the story where a research into comfort and function developed into software research: pushing the boundaries of fashion design in 3D. Each of the garments is styled with a pair of tights, which constructions are inspired by the anatomy of the human body. This dynamic approach of patterns formed the start of my fascination for movement and human anatomy, which eventually evolved in my next project: Comfort Mapping.

Apart from the design & development process of these garments, I collaborated with a team of designers and engineers enrolled in a minor at the AUAS, focussed on Virtual Reality. They built a VR environment around the garments, intended for storytelling of the collection and an extra experience. Aside from this location-based experience (through oculus VR headsets), some garments were available worldwide through AR snapchat filters.